“Food is everything we are,” wrote the late chef and explorer Mr Anthony Bourdain. “It is… your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma.” And, it’s worth adding, it is the cities where what we are is broadly shared, adapted and exposed to new influences. Cities promise visitors a way to eat through the local culture, representing food from around their region and, sometimes, as in the case with capital cities, the country you are in.
There are diverse metropolises that fuse cuisines from around the world; those that specialise in one type of traditional cooking, and others where new culinary landscapes seem to be emerging. Here are a few of the world’s best culinary capitals – where an empty stomach is the only thing you need to bring along with you – and what to look for when you arrive.
01.
Athens, Greece
What to know: The Greek capital is earning a reputation for balancing both traditional and contemporary versions of its cuisine. There’s a lively food scene in the city, where classic tavernas, street-food vendors and upscale sites share the same neighbourhoods. Athens is changing fast, but where food is concerned, that’s no bad thing.
Where to eat: The self-coined “new-age taverna” Linou Soumpasis in hip Psirri has caused a lot of buzz for its fresh seafood and sleek, Instagrammable aesthetic. It is where Athenian photographer and editor Mr Chris Kontos advises visitors to eat. Meanwhile, Seychelles, one of the city’s most innovative modern meze spots, serves a rotating menu of modern dishes to a fashionable crowd. Phita is another superb gastro-taverna, focusing on a market-led menu that has included butterflied sardines on baked elephant beans and stuffed vine-leaves topped with fish tartare. Then there’s souvlaki (and you’re going to smell and crave souvlaki). It’s recommended to grab one at Volvi, a hole-in-the-wall located in the meat market. They use a locally sourced, chemical-free charcoal instead of a griddle. But it’s hard to go wrong in Athens.